He Ate
I crave sushi. I’ve had some of the best around the country, and never did I think I would have good sushi in Iowa. We’ve eaten at every sushi place in Des Moines, and I’ve had an unsatisfactory experience everywhere other than Miyabi 9. Some folks say Waterfront is the spot. Nope. Almost identical in ingredients but not as precisely executed as it’s not a sushi bar. Sashimi can be all about the freshness of the fish, and Waterfront can stand up to that. But for actual sushi, for fresh fish, perfectly cooked rice, plus creativity, I won’t eat anywhere other than Miyabi.
Before Miyabi goes and gets a big head (not that this reviewer is the first to pepper it in accolades), this is certainly far from the best sushi I have ever had (that title goes to Blowfish in San Francisco). Iowa is landlocked – so it’s not a fair battle. However, as it bears repeating – there is no better place to eat sushi than Miyabi 9 in the state of Iowa. Period.
I love eel. SHE looks at me like I’ve just ordered braised panda. One day SHE will discover the true power of a perfectly cooked eel, but ever since chefs on Chopped received eel in their basket, I have little chance of convincing her. Miyabi cooks their eel expertly, I strongly recommend any of their eel rolls – but their Eel Sashimi wins every time. Since we share, I always get a few pieces just for me. Should you go rolls – go with my favorite – Spider: deep-fried Soft Shell Crab with Eel and Special Sauce. I tend to be a purist when it comes to sushi, which basically means “nothing deep-fried or with cream cheese” but this roll has won me over
For the non-eel friendly (SHE) I also enjoy their Tiger roll. Though if I’m not getting eel, I tend to try some of their non-sushi items. Appetizers – perfectly done Edamame, Steamed Pork or Shrimp Dumplings (come on Iowa – go for steamed), Seaweed Salad with just the right amount of sesame and one of the best Squid Salads I’ve ever had.
I would be remiss if I left out the atmosphere and the service – both are high quality. We recently ate at Hoshi Lounge, and received quite possibly the worst service we have ever had. So I need to give props where props are due – not only is their food outstanding, but also the décor makes you feel like you’re in a big city. We’ve never eaten there when the room is not full, and the servers actually know their menu and can make recommendations that are informed and intuitive.
We are lucky to have Miyabi in Des Moines. I would like to see a bit more creativity on the menu, like adding some other fruits into the roll mix (green apple, kiwi, strawberry) and perhaps some coconut to go with the eel, but I’ll keep coming back for more surprises and the best sushi our city has to offer. And one day, SHE will eat eel. No that’s not a euphemism.
She Ate
Damn. It’s hot out there. It’s too hot to grill out. It’s too hot to cook in. It’s even too hot to order pizza. In the two minutes it takes me to pay the delivery guy, my perfect 72 degree living room gets inundated with hundred-degree humidity. The only solution is sushi. Fresh, cold, raw sushi…and lots of it.
A land-locked city like Des Moines, logically, should not have as many sushi restaurants as it does. Yet from West Glen to the East Village, sushi bars are popping up like bobbers. There’s Taki on 86th in Urbandale, known more for its cocktails and sake bombs than its sushi. There’s Sakari on Ingersoll, if you like your sushi served amidst half a dozen blaring flatscreens. As for me and HE – our spot is Miyabi 9.
The owner and chef is Miyabi Yamamoto, or “Mike” as he’s known stateside. Anytime Miyabi 9 is open, you can find Mike behind the sushi bar, slinging sashimi with a quick wit, and sometimes with a quick temper. He’s as much fun to watch as the sushi is to look at. But it’s not just a pretty picture. Miyabi 9 is fresh, creative, and most importantly delicious. The combos are a plenty, so those who aren’t as adventurous (me) can get their fill of something tasty while hanging with those who will eat anything (HE).
I started with steamed pork dumplings, decidedly neither raw nor seafood, but definitely delicious. The dumpling itself melts away, and the pork inside is tender and flavored simply with scallions, salt, pepper & soy. The pork I stay away from on Miyabi’s menu is the “Iowa Roll.” Deep fried pork, carrots and cucumber…makes me think maybe Iowa doesn’t really need its own roll. But I am an Iowa girl, and I brought my big girl appetite with me so I ordered two rolls as an entrée. I also brought a few really hungry friends, so I knew all the food on the giant fish-shaped platter would find a home. I went with the spicy tuna, a sushi bar standard, but one that Miyabi does exceptionally well. The tuna is super-fresh (as always) and the spicy mayo is light and creamy with just enough kick (this from a girl who has a deep hatred of anything calling itself mayo…I’m a walking contradiction, I know). My second, the Tiger roll, was comprised of tightly rolled shrimp tempura, salmon, cucumber, and avocado, wrapped in seaweed. This big roll is full of flavor and texture. Creamy avocado meets crunchy tempura, smooth salmon meets crisp cucumber. Definitely worth the $10.50, and I consider any roll over $10 to be a splurge. I washed it all down with my favorite sushi bar cocktail in all of DSM, and there must be hundreds… The Ume Cocktail at Miyabi 9 is simply chilled white wine and house sake, and those are the only two mixers I need.
With all those Ume Cocktails and chilled rolls Miyabi has to offer, who really needs AC on a day like this? *SHE raises hand*
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Oh, awesome! My favorite thing is a condescending restaurant review. I lived in Germany for 3 years, Chicago for 8. I’ve eaten in London, Dover, Edinburgh. I’ve eaten in Barcelona, Florence and Paris. I’ve eaten in New Orleans and Houston and San Francisco. I’ve probably had excellent and crappy food in every location. But I don’t compare how food in little ol’ Des Moines manages to squeak by when the rest of the world dines like kings. Poor form, guys. If you want to eat sushi in San Francisco, buy a plane ticket.
Caron – the below is from HE and SHE: (and no, HE and SHE are not my wife and I – seems to be the common deduction)
Thanks for the comment. It wasn’t our intent to be condescending. We think the sushi at Miyabi is great, and we hope our review reflects that. However, HE and I don’t think of our fair city as “little ol’ Des Moines” at all, and I don’t believe the fine service industry folks in DeMo feel that way either. We hold it in the same regard as any city we eat in. There are some top caliber chefs and menus right here in the 515. We too, have lived (and eaten) all over the world, but that’s not what this column is about. Quite simply, we love Des Moines restaurants… but any restaurant, any where, can always benefit from a bit of inspiration.
It’s a fallacy that sushi on the coasts is necessarily better than anywhere else. For fish to be legally sold in the US, it has to be frozen. It can be just as fresh in Iowa as it is anywhere else in the US.
That aside, Miyabi is passable, and maybe even good if you don’t actually like sushi. The couple of times I’ve eaten there it was good. I just wish they didn’t cover everything in heavy sauces.
@Dave – If you want sushi without heavy sauces, order sushi that is served without heavy sauces. (Nigiri, sashimi, some rolls) This is the case at any sushi restaurant.
FWIW – Sushi opinions are like BBQ opinions, everyone has a “best” place and in their mind all other opinions are wrong. Just say what you like from where, I see no reason to knock other places unless SERIOUS transgressions have taken place.
@InthewaterDSM
I don’t think I’ve ever had a spicy tuna roll that was covered in mayo before like it was at Miyabi. If I had known they were going to slather everything in mayo, I would have asked them to hold it. I wasn’t impressed by any of the maki that I had. It was good, but nothing special. The one tempura roll I had was overly battered to the point it was almost like state fair food.
I won’t knock it too bad since I’ve only been there twice, but overall it was pretty mediocre, IMO.
I will say that the nigiri and sashimi I had was very good, though. Best uni I’ve had, maybe ever.
If you want the cheapest no frills sushi in town you just pick it up from The Gateway Market off of MLK. You can’t beat $6 – $8 lunches. They make the sushi daily so it is pretty fresh and gives you a quick sushi fix – though it isn’t for the picky sushi fans.
I’ve lived in San Francisco and Portland, which obviously had great sushi, as well as other bigger cities, not on the coast, where the sushi was also delicious. I’ve eaten at Miyabi three times and Sakari three times. I’ve also had sushi at Appare and a few other places in town. I agree with @InthewaterDSM that sushi is highly personal, so it’s just a matter of finding the freshest fish prepared the way that you prefer it. I think Sakari serves the freshest and most original sushi that I’ve had here in Des Moines, and it’s my go to place for sushi. Some of their rolls rival the best sushi I’ve eaten in SF. In my opinion, Miyabi is good but basic and not necessarily the best in town.
PS. When I lived in SF, I know my favorite sushi chef bought his fish fresh off the dock, so I’m not sure about the frozen rule.
Thanks for the conversation Jillian, Dave, Keith, and IntheWater. I know one thing, I love Sushi from Miyabi 9, slathered in sauce or not. I have tried the Yellow Tail, which is a more traditional Sushi and a good number of the rolls, my favorite being the Miami Heat. I can see why people would have a preference either way, I just love it all.